Friday, 19 October 2012

Tutorial :How to make a hoodie with zip front

After struggling to make one for my daughter I put together a brief tutorial, especially around how to put the zip in an unlined hoodie.

I drafted my pattern off an old one but getting the dimensions correct was a bit of an issue - I had to add a bit onto the edge of the hood as mine ended up a bit small , so if you can find a pattern or take apart the old one that would be easier.

1. sew the front pieces to the back at the shoulder seams

2. Sew together the hood back seam and then finish the front edge

Here you can see that I put some pretty tape over the inside seam to keep it looking tidy when the hood is down and you can see inside it.
Then put the hood aside and make the sleeves.

3. In a kids hoodie the cuff is too small to sew on last if you are using an overlocker ( serger), so first I attached the cuff. ( It is tidier if you can attach the cuff after the arm sleeve is seamed but this was lots easier)

4. Next I sewed the sleeve into the body

5. I then sewed the sleeve and right around the armpit and the sewed the front and back body of the hoodie together in the same seam

6. Now I attached the bottom band and then overlocked the front edge where the zipper will attach.

7. Stitch the hood too the body , the hood will be about 1.5 cm short of the front edge ( so you can turn this edge back when you insert the zip.

8. Now the zip,separate the two pieces and  lie each side, wrong side up( the zip part will face away from the edge here) on each edge.
and stitch about the middle of the strip to attach to the front edge. The zip needs to be long enough so the bottom sits level with the bottom band of the hoodie front and at least 1cm above the top. Check that the pockets are level at this stage when you do up the zip as it is very easy to get one a few mm higher than the other and it is really noticable if they are contrasting fabric.

9. The next step is to fold over the excess zip at the top and then roll the zip over to the inside so you can top stitch down the front edge from the outside.

10. Top stitch one or two rows of stitching close to the zip to hold everything in place.
Now you have the zip inserted.

11 Depending on how tidy this looks you may want to do what I did and sew some tape over this seam to make it look better since this will be visible when it is worn.

And on the outside it should look like this

And there you go , one finished hoodie, hopefully you made yours with less unpicking and foul language than I did!

1 comment:

Hindustanka said...

this hoodie is very nice looking, can't imagine making anything like this myself...:)your work is great! Anna